Most of us have seen and been appalled by the images from high on Mt. Everest, of climbers in a long line waiting to move up towards the summit. We’ve been saddened by the loss of life caused by this unacceptable and unsustainable overcrowding on what to many is the pinnacle of their mountaineering goals.

So what is the cause of this exploitation of noble ambition?, and what can be done to improve the situation?

Thinking back to a time some years ago, I was on the North (Tibetan) side of Everest above advance Base Camp  at a point known as Crampon Point. Here is where climbers fit crampons to their boots in preparation for the snow and ice face leading up to the North Col. (Crampons are sharp points fastened to the bottom of mountaineering boots that dig into snow and ice to prevent boots from slipping).

Here at Crampon Point I came across a climber trying to fit his new and expensive crampons to his boots (also brand new and very expensive).

He was obviously struggling so one of our Sherpa guides went to help. This climber had never worn crampons before, they were not even adjusted to fit his boots and were fresh out of the box.

Unfortunately, this is not a unique situation on Mt. Everest and is of course, part of the problem. There is no qualification for attempting to climb to the highest point on earth and anyone with enough money will find someone willing to guide, or drag them if necessary, up the mountain, regardless of their lack of experience on big mountains.

It’s somewhat difficult to draw a comparison, but lets say you like “messing about in boats”, but your experience of sailing is limited to a mirror dinghy on the local reservoir on a Sunday afternoon. You are however, wealthy enough to go out and buy the latest ocean going yacht, so you buy your dream boat and immediately set out to sail singlehandedly across the Atlantic Ocean. You wouldn’t would you? No, you would gradually build on your limited experience by achieving more modest goals before attempting such an ambitious undertaking. At least, one would hope so.

If it was compulsory to have a Climbing C.V that included previous experience of Himalayan mountains of say 5000m, 6000m and 7000m before being issued with a permit to attempt Mt. Everest, (by either the Nepalese or Chinese government), this in itself would restrict the amount of climbers on the mountain at any one time whilst still providing an income to the government from peak fees generated by other mountain permits. Indeed, this would also help the people of Nepal in particular, by directing expeditions to the less frequented areas and providing income where it is desperately needed.

The Sherpa people of the Khumbu (Everest Region) have become comparatively wealthy from the many mountaineering and trekking groups that head up to Everest Base Camp and beyond every year. If some of this wealth could be distributed to the less well known areas, not only would it benefit the poorer people, but it would give mountaineers a much more spiritual experience by allowing them to enjoy what mountaineering is really about, getting away from the crowds and climbing in pristine areas off the beaten track.

Something has to be done and it needs to happen quickly. No-one wants to see more images of hundreds of climbers queueing on any mountain or to hear the heart rending reports of people dying because they can't get down the mountain because of a human traffic jam.

Lets us all who love the mountains of the world and the Himalayas in particular, make our voices heard and put an end to this madness NOW.

Dave.

I’m often asked the question, “what footwear do I need for the Everest Base Camp trek?”. A fairly simple question, but with no simple answer.

If the weather is kind with little or no precipitation, good trail shoes will do the job. Shoes like Merrill Moab GTX or Salomon X Ultra GTX.  Scarpa Vortex are another good shoe also Goretex (GTX) lined.

These walking shoes are well made, offer good grip on most surfaces and are waterproof. Keep in mind that shoes offer little or no ankle support, so if you have a tendency to strained or sprained ankles, then I would definitely recommend good hiking boots from the start of the trek.

The Everest trail is quite rough terrain and you will be walking on uneven and rocky glacial moraine as you get closer to Base Camp. Glaciers are constantly moving of course, so the trail changes frequently so it never really gets worn smooth by the constant foot traffic of people, yaks and donkeys using the trail.I personally use both, shoes give my feet a bit of a break from the restriction of my Scarpa SL boots, which are amazingly comfortable and like walking with an old friend. However, where weather and trail conditions allow, my shoes are fine. I like FiveTen Camp Four when I can get them. Their Stealth Rubber soles give superior grip, but there is a down side in that they are soft and therefore only last a couple of treks. Whatever you decide is best for you, be sure to give them plenty of time to adjust to your feet BEFORE leaving home for your adventure. Wear them in on your training sessions well before your trek.

Another important consideration are socks. The two pair system suits me when I am wearing boots, which is most of the time in the mountains. A lightweight liner sock next to my feet paired with a good quality trek sock works really well.

Again, I will mention a couple of makes that I use, but there are many others on the market that I am sure are just as serviceable. I am not endorsing any one brand over another, these just happen to be brands that I use and am happy with. Thorlos have been consistently good, as have Wigwam liners. Australia’s Mountain Design’s also sell very good socks under their own brand name.

Whatever system you decide upon, I wish you Great Trekking and if you are not trekking with Design Himalaya, try to have a good time anyway.

Dave.